The following instructions should help you build the 300 ohm J-Pole antenna. With a little care and patience you can create an antenna that will perform well and last a long time. All the parts needed should be included in the parts kit. So let's get started.

First make sure you have all the parts needed.

1 - 6 foot coax cable with pl-259 connector attached.
1 - 60 inch length of 300 ohm twin lead cable
1 - Ferrite snap-on clam shell suppressor
1 - 3 inch of wider heat shrink cable
1 - 2 1/2 inch length of a bit smaller heat shrink cable
1 - 12 inch length of weather resistant (brown) string
1 - 1/2 X 8 inch Velcro strap for antenna storage

After you confirm all the above, lets get started.

If you are viewing this on the web, http://ag4qc.com/j-pole.html -- Feel free to click on any pictures for a closer look

Lets get started with the 300 ohm twin lead.

You will notice the wire is at the very edge of the cable. At one end, cut off about 1/2 inch of the center insulation.

Now strip off the insulation so you have just the wires exposed.
Tin (coat) the exposed wire with solder

Now the fun begins. This is the most difficult part. If you make a mistake, the cable is long enough for you to start over again a few times. (The cable is 60 inches and you only need 54)

Measure up 1 1/4 inches from where you just soldered the two wires and draw a line. Use your knife or chisel to make a 1/4 inch cut in each side of the cable, centered on your mark. Use a piece of wood or other material on the back to keep from gouging the table. Be sure to be on the inside of the wire.

Note: remember to measure twice and cut once. I also have a wooden stick marked with all the cut points. Feel free to compare your measurements.

Now carefully strip away the insulation from the two wires. Once this is accomplished, Trim the exposed wires.

Try to leave as much inside insulation as you can to provide extra strength.

Bulge the wires out a bit from the side so later you can slip the coax wires in that space to provide a good mechanical connection..

Note: I have a modified tool that might help with the stripping.

Tin the bare wire so it will be easier to later solder the coax. Measure once again to make sure the center of the soldered wires are 1 1/4 inch from the bottom.

Once you get this far, the rest is a lot easier!

Now lets put the twin lead aside and start on the coax.

Strip off around 1 inch of insulation from the raw end of the coax.

Now we need to upbraid the shield. Using a somewhat sharp awl or blunt pin, starting at the top start picking away and pulling the weave apart a little at a time. Make sure to go all around the shield as it's double shielded so thick.

Once it's unwoven, split the weave into two groups of wires. Make one about 1/3 the size of the other.

Take the thicker of the two wires you created from the weave and cut it off completely.

Twist the remaining unwoven shield wires and twist into one wire.

Now check to make sure all the burs of the shield are cut off and away from the center conductor of the coax.

Bend the remaining wire something like the picture. Also strip off the center insulator of the coax, leaving about 1/4 inch of insulation. Carefully tin the two wires to prepare for mating to the twin lead.

Lay the coax over the twin lead so that the shorter side of the twin lead is under the long side of the coax. This makes a overlap of about 1 1/2 inches.

Pass the wires from the coax through the bulge you made in the twin lead. Solder the two wires of the coax to the two stripped & tinned spots on the twin lead. keep the connection as close as possible. At this point the connection can be to either wire of the twin lead. Just make sure it's a solid connection. use as little heat as possible, as the center coax insulator will easily melt.

Draw a line on the twin lead, up15 1/4 and 15 1/2 inches from the spot you soldered the coax.

(Refer to the drawing on the first page if needed)

On the side of the twin lead that you soldered the unwoven shield of the coax, cut a notch between the two lines you just drew. Make the notch just deep enough to remove the wire.

NOTE: Remember we have a wooden stick that shows all the markings for the cuts and joints as a second opinion.

Measure up from the top of the notch 37 1/4 inches and draw another line. Now measure up from the bottom of the twin lead to that line . It should be 54 inches. If it is, cut it off and then drill a hole for the mounting string. Thread the string through the hole and tie the ends together to make a loop.

Now hang the antenna in an open area for testing.

So we are done. All that's left is to add the heat shrink tubing to cover and strengthen the connections and notch.

Slide the two heat shrink cables over the end of the twin lead.

Pass the small end of the Velcro strap around the coax and through the hole at the wider end to capture the cable.

Taking care, coil up the whole antenna to a diameter of about 6 inches and then use the tail of the Velcro to secure it for storage.

This antenna should be ready to use any time and has a history of providing very good service. Ideally, tie a rope on it and hoist it into a tree. Try to keep the body of the twin lead away from solid objects as much as possible. The coax can be routed most anywhere without any issues. Use the provided Velcro strap to secure the antenna for storage.

Joe Loucka AG4QC